I wondered when Schiit would be making a preamp for speakers, it should have a remote. They went further. My favorite preamps are Wyred 4 Sound STP-SE and Audio-gd P-2. I love passive preamps. All they do is controlling the volume. I could have lived with the STP-SE but as I wrote previously, I don’t need balanced outputs and I prefer something with a smaller footprint. The P-2 should fill my needs but it’s *ugly. I ended up with a Swiss-army knife integrated amp, a W4S mINT.
Thick concrete floor finished with wood parquet. There are med-hard foam under the parquet.
The ceiling is calcium silicate boards with rubber sheets cut in small pieces covering the suspension mounts, mainly to dampen excessive vibrations from tiny movements of the roof; these are not purposely built for audio, but to extend the life of the ceiling.
Under the roof, there are hard foams here and there, acting as sound deadening.
The roofing material is glazed ceramic.
Walls are bricks covered with dense plaster.
There are acoustic panels placed here and there.
The window frames are YKK aluminum, rubber sealed (multiple). Just like suspensions for the ceiling, all window mountings use rubber O rings to dampen potential vibration.
Basically, everything is built to last and to dampen vibration.
PS Audio Quintet connected to a wall outlet for audio that is individually grounded and isolated. The Quintet has different zones for DAC, preamp and power amp.
Source + DAC: Mac Mini + Schiit Eitr + Schiit Modi Multibit
The Mac Mini is powered thru an APC UPS. Most of the time, I use iTunes + BitPerfect. I find no noticeable difference compared to Audirvana Plus. iTunes is huge win for convenience.
The Schiit Eitr and Modi Multibit are plugged onto PS Audio Quintet on the same zone. The DAC zone.
I use mainly Blue Jeans Cable RCA when out of sight. By out of sight, I mean if the cables are exposed, I prefer to use better looking cables that I made myself. The materials are mainly silver-plated copper, silver soldered and terminated with silver plated RCA plugs. Basically the stuff ALO Audio is using, sourced direct from the manufacturer in Taiwan.
For digital cables, I use exclusively Blue Jeans Cable 1505F coax cable and Sys Concept high transmissivity optical cable.
The power cables are Zu’s, I can’t remember the model name.
Keep in mind that I’m not a cable believer, I believe, the shorter the cable, the better. I use boutique cables for their looks. And I’m just too lazy to sell them off.
Speakers Selah Audio Tempesta. A transparent pair of speakers. Enjoyable too. Mounted on Sanus speaker stands with IsoAcoustics Gaia isolation feet.
The Saga features relay-stepped attenuator. I am a huge fan of relay-stepped attenuator, also found in the STP-SE. Once you use this kind of volume control, you won’t go back to ancient pots. For those who like low-level listening, this is it. Say goodbye to channel imbalance.
Tube buffer? I love tubes, who doesn’t? Vs. passive mode, tube buffer offers a little bloom. I feel passive mode bass extension is more precise, you can may notice the difference. Depending on the music I am listening to, vocals sound best with tube.
Saga is dead quiet on both modes, as expected. I have various NOS tubes, it’s fun to find out how each one performs. And I guess this is the main selling point. I don’t believe there is anything like Saga in the market.
I don’t like to talk about price but in this case, I want to. Most of the time, you don’t get what you pay for in audio world. So comparing how an audio gear performs based on price is completely irrelevant. Yes, there are expensive high performing gears out there, but there are also cheap high performing gears that perform just as good if not better than expensive high performing gears. If I read one reviewer who says, “oh yeah, this USD 350 is off course performing just like how it’s priced, this USD 3000 gear is off course a better product.” I’d just close the page.
Even if the USD 3000 gear is well engineered, you need to calculate how much this expensive product maker wants to make in the first place. Things are moving at a much slower pace, they don’t have the numbers. Add to that the incredible efficiency that Schiit practice. Then there is the dealer cut.
I’ve gone thru this path, very rarely that I found an expensive gear that performs cut and above superior to the cheaper counterparts. Regardless of price, the Saga is a high performance preamp.
How does the Saga pair with Modi Multibit and Vidar?
Honestly, I feel like the Vidar is a bit of a letdown. It’s a fairly decent power amp, no doubt. Wyred 4 Sound mINT as a power amp is my preferred pairing. I will eventually write a Vidar review. Stay tuned.
Paired with the mINT, I can literally point out which DAC used at the time. It’s completely transparent. Paired with ModWright KWA 100, the Saga is also very transparent. A transparent preamp will expose flaws in the chain. Modi Multibit is a warm DAC.
Saga does not add anything to the signal path. Very transparent indeed. For those who prefers colored preamps, this is not for you. It’s fun to see how each DAC performs.
The first thing I notice is the aluminum top. It is nicely grained with the right amount of thickness. The corners are chamfered and finished without any noticeable gouge. It’s a looker.
Saga looks very handsome from a distance but when you look at it closely, The chassis has misalignments here and there. Not as bad as their smaller chassis but they can do better at no cost. It’s a non-issue for most.
I hope I won’t see these poor soldering job if I ever open it.
Let’s be fair, not everyone build their product as neat as Justin Wilson of Headamp. But bad soldering job is just sloppy and it looks like you want to make a cost cutting measure somewhere. I view buying an audio gear as a long term investment, an investment that hopefully last for decades. I don’t leave my gears active all the time like many do. So I expect what I purchase will last for a while.
If there is one thing I would complaint about, it is the poorly chosen IR remote. The remote is awful; ugly looking and most uncomfortable remote to hold onto. Not to mention, its’ longevity.
I know many people like to frequently change gears but I don’t do that. Once I’m settled, I won’t care what comes out this year or the next. If I want to add another set-up, then I may set out seeking new gears. Besides, unplugging, plugging and moving heavy audio gears are not fun at all. After all, the goal is to enjoy the music, not comparing equipments.
This superb tube preamp gets my highest recommendation, whether you want solid state or tube, this will fit your needs. Passive preamp lovers? Checked! For the solid state guys, you may like the Saga as the tube buffer sounds like a superb solid state preamp. Sure, the tube buffer adds a bit of colors, you may end up liking it as much as I do.
There is no optical audio output at the back of the new Apple TV. It’s a big bummer for an audio enthusiast like me. I’m aware that there is a way around this but I need to have an AirPort Express, next to the Apple TV, connected to my DAC via its’ optical input or a powered speakers via its’ analog input. By having an AirPort Express in the audio chain, it’s going to add another complexity to my audio setup. What if the AirPort Expess goes bananas and I would have to fiddle with resetting or re-routing the audio output setting on the Apple TV to HDMI. I prefer not to use my TV’s HDMI to optical output. The sound quality is going to suffer.
I consider myself to be a minority user who likes to have the least hassle but also to have the best sound quality out of an Apple TV. But regular users will still face a major issue; with the older Apple TV, they can easily connect a separate analog audio line to a powered speaker. Now, they cannot do it anymore with the new Apple TV. They need to have a TV with audio output jack(s). Usually, if the TV is not turned on, you won’t be able to pass an audio signal thru it. I have seen a lot of TVs without any kind of audio output.
you won’t be able to AirPlay audio directly to your speakers
I’m going to buy the new Apple TV but if I don’t like it, I’m going to return it. I don’t care about tvOS App Store. The UI looks awful. Now, there is a compelling reason to get myself a PlayStation 4. My Android-TV-equipped-Sony-TV might become my permanent Plex client.
I might buy the 3rd gen Apple TV just to keep it around for AirPlay.
Here are the scenarios that I’m considering:
new Apple TV -HDMI- Sony TV -optical- DAC -analog- powered speakers
new Apple TV -AirPlay- AirPort Express -optical- DAC -analog- powered speakers
3rd gen Apple TV -optical- DAC -analog- powered speakers
PlayStation 4 -optical- DAC -analog- powered speakers
Sony TV -optical- DAC -analog- powered speakers
I’m seriously leaning towards the last setup. Perhaps, I should add, I will be installing a Wyred 4 Sound Reclocker before the DAC to whatever setup I end up with to improve sound quality.
The way to find good speakers requires a little legwork and you can’t do it online.
Take your iPod/iPhone, (portable) DAC, or favorite good sounding CDs to an audio store
Chase the salesman away and pull out a yellow pad or whatever note-taking app you have in your phone
Play the first song on every speaker in the store, regardless of price and write down notes on how they sound
Repeat the process with all of your reference songs
Figure out which speakers sounded the best with the largest number of songs
Now look at the prices and see what the bargain is
Buy the speakers and take them home and set them up, paying attention to room acoustics
Get a good prograde equalizer and balance the response
Now, enjoy your music
Nowadays, my music reference is set and won’t be changed anytime soon. I usually bring HeadAmp Pico DAC or Wyred 4 Sound mINT if the audio store allows me to drive their speakers with it. When I chose my speakers, I also brought along with me, speakers that I bought online but I personally know the owner of the audio store. This is a unique case. It’s not like I didn’t buy anything from the store, I bought a lot of stuff from the store.
As usual, rules of thumb: spend less on amp and DAC, more on the speakers, and a bit more on room acoustics.